Birding the Keweenaw: A Photographer's Field Guide

Forbes Robertson
A bald eagle lifting off from the top of a spruce, photographed by Forbes Robertson in Michigan's Upper Peninsula.

The Keweenaw is one of those places where the birds find you as much as you find them. Lake Superior pushes weather and migration in strange, useful ways here, and if you give the peninsula a little time it pays you back. These are the spots I return to, and what I've learned to expect from each.

Spring: warblers and the lake effect

From mid-May into early June, McLain State Park outside Hancock is the easiest win. The mixed birch and conifer edges along the campground loop hold Magnolia, Black-throated Green, Cape May, and Blackburnian warblers at eye level in the morning. Get there by 6 a.m. — by 9 the sun is harsh and the birds drop into shade. Nara Nature Park in Houghton, right along the waterway, is a quieter alternative with good light off the water.

Summer: loons, sandhills, and the inland lakes

Common Loons nest on most of the smaller lakes north of Calumet — Lake Medora and Gratiot Lake are reliable. A kayak and a 400mm minimum will keep you the respectful distance these birds deserve. Listen, don't chase. If a loon is calling at you, you're too close.

Fall: Brockway Mountain

By mid-September, Brockway Mountain Drive above Copper Harbor becomes a raptor highway. Broad-winged Hawks, Sharp-shinned, and the occasional Northern Goshawk ride the ridge lift south. Bring a long lens, a folding chair, and a thermos. The light is best in the first three hours after sunrise.

Winter: the hard, generous season

Snowy Owls turn up along the Houghton waterfront and the breakwalls in irruption years. Pine and Evening Grosbeaks work the feeders at Estivant Pines trailheads. Dress for negative numbers, keep batteries inside your coat, and don't flush an owl for a frame. It isn't worth it.

Year-round: eagles on the Portage

The Bald Eagles aren't downtown — they're on the quieter water at the edges of the Portage Waterway. The mouth of Cole's Creek in Houghton, where it drops into the canal, is one of the most reliable spots I know. Adults and immatures both, perched in the tall pines and dropping to the water when something turns up. Follow the Houghton Canal west from there and keep your eyes on the shoreline trees. On the north side, the stretch of the Hancock Canal east of High Point Road is the other one to learn. A 400mm with room to crop is the floor; 500mm or 600mm is better. Best light is the first and last hours of the day, when the birds leave the trees to fish. Stay in the car if you can — it makes a better blind than anything you'd build. Kill the engine before you raise the camera; idle vibration carries through the body and softens every frame.

In late September and October, follow the salmon. The lower Sturgeon River below the M-38 bridge and the smaller tributaries running into Portage Lake hold spawning kings, and eagles — often three or four at a time, immatures squabbling with adults — work the riffles at first light. Stay on the bank, keep 75 yards back, and let them commit to a fish before you raise the camera. Pre-focus on a gravel bar and wait. They'll come through.

Bring patience. The Keweenaw rewards it.